Top rope vs belay weight reddit. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle.
Top rope vs belay weight reddit When sport climbing, the climber attaches the rope to fixed anchors (bolts) as he/she ascends. Your weight difference doesn't matter for top rope belay - friction at the anchor is doing most of the holding, especially since gyms usually do a full wrap around their top rope anchors. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. The locking biners (also called screwgates, sometimes) are for things like attaching your belay/rappel device to your harness, or clipping into an anchor with a sling (or personal anchor system), or in a top rope anchor. You can belay in single rope, twin rope, and double rope modes, and you can rappel with it. If I top rope solo with two micro traxions on one rope am I going to die? Am I already dead? Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). Step 8: Once the second reaches the leader they can be belayed all the way to the anchor. Thanks for the reply. 2 instances of large falls from near the top of the wall ending with my climber on or near the ground. To embark on this journey, it's crucial to grasp the fundamental mechanics, gear requirements, and the pivotal step of obtaining top-rope certification in a climbing gym. 5 mm ropes, ignore the 10mm minimum inscribed on the side. NB: If you get to the top of the belay and you have to yank the webbing to make it retract fully, tell the staff. If a climber falls while climbing on top rope, their weight transfers from the rock to the rope. Not sure why. lowering: you stay on belay, and the belayer lowers you down using his belaying device. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). I've mostly used 9. I find I can do harder grades top roping because I’m more comfortable making big moves with the rope attached, assuming my belay partner has all the slack. With that, catching your climber softly on lead is essential to keeping them safe. Something else was at play. I weigh 116 lbs, my husband weighs 200 lbs. The anchor takes the force and friction of a fall. This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. 5-10. I understand the differences between top rope and lead belaying, but what are the differences for the climbing in terms of technique and physical challenges? Step 7: Using a regular belay plate (ATC / Verso) the leader belays the second in a top rope fashion with the top rope coming from the second masterpoint that was created on the anchor. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Anything to make it easier is enticing to me. Sometimes, I clove in tight and belay off my rope tie in loop, sometimes I re-direct, occasionally I belay directly off the anchor. So if you weigh 60kg, you are able to belay a 90kg person @ a toprope. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Rope handling gets harder with thin ropes as grabbing a thin rope is harder than grabbing a thick rope. Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. Most gyms have basic instruction to teach and test climbers how to do this safely using their preferred belay device. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. PBUS for taking in slack on lead is just too many movements and you never want to short rope your climber because you're fiddling around with PBUS. Saftey considerations: The lever of a gri gri is on the left side of the device therefore the grigri must be on the left side of your tie-in figure 8 knot. For lead climbing we recently started using the Ohm and really like it. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. It’s more affordable, lighter in weight, and does an exceptional job at both top-rope and lead belaying. I'm looking to acquire a new dry treated single rope for glacier traverses. Hit the the top of the wall at 30 ft. Further possible issues are cut resistance and abrasion resistance. Solid anchor on two trees, simple climb, thus allowing me to just drag in the slack along the way, in essence reversing the rapell down. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. 5 mm single rope. I have an opera, but I mostly use it on snow/ice, and only use it on rock for very long approaches where I really care about weight or paired with a beefier rope for double rope rappels. The GriGri Plus comes with a learning curve and its anti-panic function doesn’t mix well with thick gym ropes, so therefore is not something I would recommend. , trusted the auto belay and decked. At what point (weight difference) does the risk become unacceptable? TL;DR: Climbing with partner 80 lbs heavier. There was a detailed thread about belaying with weight differences just the other day. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Building an outdoor climbing wall. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! My boyfriend and I just started top roping. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. The gym I work and climb at uses double wrapped ropes and weight differences don’t really matter. Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. Most of I tried using a Grigri 2 as my primary because I left one of microtrax at home. God damn it was so much fun. (At least in my Feb 19, 2025 · The Neox can also be used to top belay on a multi-pitch, though it wouldn’t be my first choice as I find the back-feeding of slack more annoying than with a GriGri (the same goes for top-roping). Could lead climbing that same route increase its grade in theory? In my gym there are walls where you can climb top rope or lead with the permadraws along the same routes. There are pre-hung ropes that hang from the top of the routes which climbers use to safely belay and lower from. We use a grigri. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. In defence of the belay master we use it when we're clipping kids into the rope for top roping for speed. They had a bag of sand at a gym I went to you could link to your belt. I like to lead belay with the Mammut Smart, top rope belay with the GriGri and I keep an ATC with an auto-locking biner on my harness when I'm climbing outside for rappelling. Some manufacturers/ropes will be slightly fatter for the weight, and others skinny but hefty. There is a variant, the ATC sport that can only be used with single ropes, and cannot readily be used for rappels. Begin the lower by standing up What are some of the issues, pros, and cons of the different methods of locking a figure 8 or ATC while on a free hanging rappel? I know the most common way to lock an 8 is to simply cross the brake line over in a half lock. Reasons for not liking auto belays. If you are attached to an anchor point with your rope, be it on a ledge or at the top of a crag, then it can be a good idea to belay from your rope loop. While belaying on top-rope, you should keep the rope a tiny bit loose at all times, preventing the climber from losing much height from falling, but not so tight as to help pull the climber higher. Do you want to learn to rock climb? Top rope climbing is the first step. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more… “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? My local gym requires PBUS (pull brake under slide) technique for top rope belaying, but they're totally fine with tunnel method for lead belaying. Should you need to ascend a rope, you will need friction hitches, so why not rappel with one? I outweigh my partner, so he uses assisted-braking to belay me from his harness, but switches to an ATC Guide to belay from an anchor or rappel. If you're tying into a rope the way most people do you should be putting the rope through both loops already. She broke both femurs and her hips. I weigh about 120 lbs while he weighs about 170. If you make sure to thread the biner correctly when top belaying, there are no safety issues. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions Let's say a route is set at a certain difficulty for top rope. 3/9. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great Feb 12, 2018 · You want to go climb at an indoor climbing gym but aren't sure what you need to know. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. I'm looking to buy my first belay device. Bring some slings or cordalette to run around a tree or rock at the base. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. The Micros I save for SUPER thin half and twin ropes. Attach a weight to your harness. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. I tie up the excess rope at the base of the climb so each strand is hanging off the ground, the weight of the hanging rope is more than enough to pull the slack through the Grigri. Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). I’d strongly consider what belay device you’re using. The weight of the rope doesn't always directly correlate with diameter. I find it extremely hard to control anything without my feet on the ground. Add the mental factor of fall on top rope (almost nothing happens) vs on boulder (I need to fall well to not snap my leg). I'm pretty sure that there's nothing wrong with using a Gri-Gri for lead, as you can see it in use in most Sharma and Ondra videos :) I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. If the prussic is below the belay device and for some reason you loose both hands on the rope the prussic is locking the rope in the belay device, needing less holding power. Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. It will also feel more comfortable/less awkward when you fall on the belay loop vs the tie in points. My belay device (reverso) is rated for 8. The last thing you do before rappelling is unclip from the anchor and clip that tether back to your belay loop. The best and simplist method for top rope self belay BY FAR is to tie in on one end of the top rope and thread the other end through a grigri. Took a two day (6+6 hours) course with certified instructors, then I took a test a couple of days later to get a certificate that says I'm capable of belaying and climbing on lead. Here are some tips to help you overcome many of the challenges! This is Part 3 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series: Part 1: How To Belay With An ATC Part 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification Test Part 3: How To Belay A Heavier Climber Part 4: How To Belay From Above Part 5: How To Set Up Top Rope On the other hand, double wrapped ropes (looped around a cylinder rope anchor twice) make large weight differences wildly more manageable. You don't need to worry about a single point of failure with the belay loop. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. The belay loop is mostly just for belaying, but also useful in establishments that prefer to use carabiners over knots for liability reasons. I can very comfortably belay someone twice my weight. Here are our in-depth reviews. Rappelling keeps the rope static, so no friction wearing down the metal. The limit at lead climbing is suggested to be the half of toproping: So it would be 125% (60kg belaying a 75kg person). The rope goes from the climber to the top anchor and then down to you (the belayer). This is true for top-rope climbing, but especially for lead climbing where you need to know and pay attention to way more stuff in terms of safety. but I don't know if they're intended for regular usage. Either is fine really, in canyoning it's not common to extend your belay plate right? Lots of negative comments about auto belays. Yes, if he falls on an outdoor top rope anchor i will get pulled up just like i would on a lead route, it is what it is, ive learned how to anticipate it, how to avoid colliding badly, and according to him I give a better catch than any of our other climber friends. Before even touching the rock, a new climber should learn to belay. [link to capstan equation] I'm a little surprised your gym allows ATCs, unless I'm missing something? Overly Enthusiastic Belaying? Anyone have thoughts on belaying that might be helping too much with a climb? I've been climbing (mostly indoor top rope) for about two months, but I don't have a steady belay partner or group so I'm mostly on autobelay. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. She's okay now but our gym is closed all year because of it. See full list on mountainknowhow. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. and metal work can go through the belay loop. Given enough weight difference and not enough friction in the TR anchor, you absolutely need a weight sack for top rope, or you'll get pulled up when they let go at the top cartoon style. Top rope belay typically is not a problem with larger weight differences, lead climbing is another story Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri can also put a lot more weight on the rope: “For the general public…what they want to do is a [single rope] rappel, which puts four times the amount of weight on half as much rope,” said Delap. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Think of this differently. With the weight of a climber on the rope, repeated lowering causes wear on the anchor. Make sure his full weight is on the rope - take up as tight as you can and then sit back fully on your end. That way you don't fight the weight of the rope when The belayer does not climb while belaying. My boyfriend is 50lbs heavier than me and i dont have any issues belaying him. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. 2) Toprope belaying is doable up to 150% of your own weight. 1 mm Beal ropes. I didn't think about the rope aspect yet. I wasn't sure if there was a good rule of thumb about lead climbing adding a certain amount of grades of difficulty or not. This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. That's what my belay device did the whole time I knew it before the fatal fall and I assume that had something to do with its failure The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. Brace with a foot against the wall if you need to. Jun 19, 2023 · Here’s what I think: The standard GriGri is the best fit for most climbers. Like the harder moves to me are easier than bouldering because it’s less scary mentally. 2 though. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. Practicing in gyms is a great way to get solid at the skill. 9 range, one 5. I've also seen shunts for self-belaying however I'd prefer a top-rope mechanism. P. . The first category, "Climbing Carabiners," has a lot of variety. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. This is the whole reason for the belay loop. Have you had luck switching to rappel with the Grigri? The weight of the rope below seems to give a firemans belay of sorts- my ATC works fine, just a little more resistance. I like that has belay glasses on, helps me keep the shortest amount of rope out and still not short rope. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. It also allows you to remain connected while you test your rappel setup. The climber is connected to the rope that is connected to the system which automatically raises the rope when the climber ascends, stops if the climber falls and lowers the climber when she or he reaches the top of the climbing wall. I use what I think is best in the circumstance. I pretty much never use a rope fatter than 9. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The GigaJule is assisted belay when he wants, standard tuber when he doesn’t, doesn’t freeze up, can be used for positioning on a fixed rope for top rope anchors, and as a progress capture device/ guide mode belay device. You can safely belay down to 9. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. Those are worth their weight in gold (which is considerable) for sport belaying/projecting. 8 - 5. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. With the rope slack coiled and clipped to an overhand bight, ~1m off the ground, I couldn't get the device to rappel. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? Long answer: other triple rated skinny ropes have a low sheathe percentage, and are much more vulnerable to abrasion than similar weight half ropes. Above the belay device you are putting your entire load onto the prussic. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. 3a) From the bottom, I belay off my belay loop with the ATC and two carabiners O&O 3b) From the top, it depends on the situation and belay stance/anchors. Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. don't use the belay loop with a rope. These bolts take the force and friction in the event of a fall, though more force will be translated to the belay if the May 5, 2025 · Top-rope climbing, a popular choice for recreational climbers, offers a safer alternative to lead climbing. Dec 27, 2022 · The top rope secures your rope to the top of the climb or wall (hence the name, top rope). Advanced Climbers Gym vs. There are a lot of factors beyond length of fall including: rope diameter vs. Basically, your question cannot be answered with a length of fall figure. 5-10mm ropes, so this hasn't been an issue so far. While lowering, the rope is sliding through the anchor. Two micro traxions one rope. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. What is an acceptable max weight difference? Am I irresponsible as a climbing partner and belayer if I belay someone that much New harness advice: Image is the user guide for my new harness, and I've been told the opposite in the past i. New to climbing with a harness : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. I'll break them first into locking and non-locking. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. I wasn’t a huge fan. you are attached to the rope with a knot. Tl, dr: As a lighter top rope belayer, get as much directly under the anchor as you can to reduce the force on you. These free articles explain everything about top rope climbing. 6 mm and 9. At my university gym, one of the wall employees was getting some late night crag action on an autobelay. belay device, how much or how little friction there is through protection points, friction of the rope against the rock, single rope or half ropes, etc. I am a pretty small girlie. Every time I'm belayed by a human, it feels like cheating. Top roping with that weight difference shouldn’t be yanking anyone into the air more than a few inches. My options are 8. I'm quite light so I have to admit it is possible to belay someone double my weight but it does put strain on my body and well in a way frustrating from the side that I do much more "work" than my partners with belaying. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. I have no worry belaying him on top rope. 6mm kinda borderline for the Reverso whose single rope rating starts at 8. The carabiner is incorrectly loaded (triaxially) when you put it through the tie in points, so use the belay loop. 11-5. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). There are many ways to set up a top … Top rope vs bouldering: is it better to do both? Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. You are mostly passive rappeling: you slide down along the rope, using your rappelling device (same as a belaying device, but used differently), the belayer is not involved, you are the active party. I just got into climbing and have gotten myself both top rope and lead certified through a certified course. You do this by securing yourself to one locker on two strands (with a clove hitch and the rope) and place your belay device on the other two strands to belay up your follower. I also like to add that if you're new to leading, which I think you said you are, it's helpful to think of the amount of falls you've taken and caught. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. In doing so you are more able to transfer the weight of a fallen climber more directly on to your belay and avoid the squashing sensation caused through having your harness pulled. S. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. I just had my first solo top rope send, using a basic rapell setup with a normal brake and prusik, on my dynamic rope. Anyone with experience belaying with this weight difference? Asking here because I'm finding limited information regarding this large of a weight difference online. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. I do always wear belay gloves, even when I’m belaying top rope in the gym, because it makes me feel more confident - if something crazy happens I can grab the rope and hopefully hang on. I have taken some practice falls and a few real ones and I often get lifted up. If you are top roping something really tall, you might get a lot of rope stretch out of a top rope, but decking from 15 feet is crazy. Feb 9, 2020 · TOP-ROPE BELAYING In top-rope climbing, the rope runs through an anchor at the top of the route and then down to the climber. Often, these anchors are permanent (or fixed), so with a tied knot and a belay, you are permanently attached or ‘protected’ when climbing. One interesting quirk we noticed was the clacking noise the Neox makes when taking up slack quickly or while the rope is weighted. Anchoring your belayer using the backside of the rope is easy and it will give them a soft “catch”. Better for lead belay. There's also a lack of belay devices for ultra-thin ropes, the existing thinnest halfs are already below the recommended diameter of a Micro Jul. Though it has none of the luster, appeal or glory of climbing itself, belaying is perhaps the most important aspect of the sport. You're in the right place, as we’ve dissected everything you need to know to kickstart your top-rope climbing It's different disciplines, bouldering is more strength based than rope climbing. But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. In Norway most of the indoor gyms requires you to have this certificate to be able to belay on top rope and lead. First off, it's essential that you get proper, professional instruction if you're just starting to belay. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… FTR - I have never found rappelling or top belaying to be an issue. Is the 8. The climber, who doesn’t need to think about belaying … just climbs! The rope that connects the climber to the belayer. Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. Mar 21, 2024 · Top Rope Climbing The most common roped experience climbers will have in a gym is known as top rope climbing or top roping. Just wondering what everyone else’s Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. Belaying a heavier climber is always tough. It's good because the black cover is an easy visual check that krab is correct and also removes any risk of the screw gate working undone. Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. 5mm? Is the 8. 6 going to perform as well as a thicker rope? Key beta: Get a gri gri 1 on ebay or anywhere you can find used gear. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. com Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Pictures: Simple overview sketch Then a couple of sites had threads regarding twisting the rope (belayer walks around climber once before starting climb) to create similar friction as wrapping the rope once at the top anchor. e. BTW, it's also easier if you attach your auto-block to the rope first before attaching your rap device. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. With the G+ that can be mitigated. Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. An auto belay system also employs a safety rope; however, no partner is involved. First, visualize a top rope belay system. The anchor, which is a technical climbing term for a secure attachment of the rope to the rock, usually at the top of the route. But I usually rappel on 11 mm BlueWater II static rope, and such a large tough rope can jamb if this lock method is used while the device is weighted. After exceeding this 150%, you should consider an extra anchor point. I am going to go for my lead rope certification within the next month hopefully and I was wondering about everyone's opinions on using an ATC or GriGri or any other belay device for lead climbing. If you plan on rope climbing, learn what to expect to pass a belay test. I am looking into purchasing my first harness and belay device – during the course we were taught to belay with the Black Diamond ATC Pilot and were also introduced to resistance devices like the Ohm for bigger weight differences. I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. aepnemjytltjhccntnjnsfsrkaxqwwgfhbgsxwbouybvmakjglwpkxjjcceymhjhcfcfbukiovya