Are climbing nuts safe When possible, bolts should be replaced by reusing & expanding the original hole. Take the time to report any such bolts you encounter to your local climber organization, on Mountain Project, or at badbolts. The best climbing carabiner comes with some great features that we have discussed in our reviews & the buying guide. Check out our great prices and latest deals! Jan 6, 2020 · The DMM HB Brass Offset (also known as simply DMM Brass Offsets) is the most popular “ brassy ” or micro nut on the market, and with good reason. Their two distinct orientations include one that is offset and the other that's less tapered and more traditionally shaped, which together create a ton a versatility Learn how to place climbing cams. Oct 29, 2021 · We field tested 7 of the best climbing nut tools in 2025 from top brands like Metolius and Black Diamond. Nuts are small metal wedges that are placed in cracks in the rock, and they act as anchors to secure the rope. We have been climbing for a while, guiding professionally May 17, 2021 · It’s important to do everything that you can to keep yourself self while you’re climbing. The wall nuts enable a safe placing in the rock by their asymmetrical shape with notches and broad contact face. Adhesive anchors (aka “glue ins”) are an increasingly popular option for stewards who are maintaining and upgrading climbing hardware resources. If you’re racking nuts efficiently and keep yourself safe, it’s all good. One of our outdoor climbing guides explains how to identify when it's time to retire or replace your hardware, soft goods, and personal climbing gear. Even now, after several updates and a lot more fierce competition, they remain one of the very best nuts for the Face Climbing Neil Gresham's masterclass is a very good resource for face climbing techniques. May 6, 2025 · We bought the nine best carabiners and tested them side by side on alpine peaks, sport crags, and stellar multi-pitch climbs. Jun 21, 2020 · What Style of Climbing is in Eldorado Canyon State Park? You can find bouldering, sport climbing (clipping bolts), and trad climbing (placing protective gear) in Eldorado Canyon. Start your next climbing adventure knowing you're safe with Cypher gear. One - I've had cams pull on me before from apparently good placements, and I've never had a good wire pull. As the first form of leader placed protection was a stone pebble in a crack on Cloggy in North Wales. They are comprised of two halves: one half is a paddle and the other is a flat ball which tracks up and down a central groove on the paddle when the trigger is pulled or released. Tricams, hexes Dec 27, 2016 · Despite this fact, I'm trying to get as much outdoor climbing done as I can. Find top brands, exclusive offers, and unbeatable prices on eBay. Bolts are sometimes used as individual climbing protection or as pieces to a more complex anchor system. But for those that have used them for free climbing, especially on less traveled granite, and in the alpine, they tend to become an invaluable addition to the rack for many climbs. " What Climbing Nuts Should You Buy? Consensus favorites: Black Diamond Stoppers and DMM Wallnuts Black Diamond Stoppers 4-13 Pretty… May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. Jun 3, 2022 · According to several mechanical engineers, climbing hardware (biners, cams, nuts) is almost always safe unless it displays obvious faults such as cracks, deep gouges, or doesn't function smoothly. Read the full article. Climbing nuts—and hexes, tricams, and other offshoots—only work if they’re placed correctly. The same size BallNut feels more solid in this tiny placements and has a much bigger contact area than a micro friend. It will also have loops for you to attach other gear. However, it comes with inherent risks that require proper preparation, the right equipment, and an understanding of key safety techniques. Read the best ways to personalize your gear with nail polish, tape, and more. Compare their sizes on nut comparison charts. Designed and sourced specifically for climbing walls, there’s nothing else on the market quite like the Escape Industrial T-nut. Master the 5 Pillars of bomber placements and get our printable pocket card for the crag. He goes into great depth about what makes for good protection. e. Learn more from here. Many pieces of climbing gear have breaking strengths it or below the 6 to 9kN range, specifically smaller nuts, micro cams, and carabiners that are cross-loaded or loaded with the gate open. Our expert team has a combined 40 years of climbing experience and has field-tested the best climbing gear since the inception of our site 304 Stainless Steel Climbing Anchor Bolt, 30KN Rock Climbing Bolt Hanger, Climb Fastening Bolt Safe Fixed Point, 4 Set Rock Climbing Holds Save 5% on 2 select item (s) Jan 24, 2023 · Trad climbing involves a wide array of gear, including nuts, hexes, cams, Big Bros, and more, to ensure climbers stay safe. I have some old climbing equipment (carabiners, hexex, nuts) that was in a bag that got wet and tossed the ropes and other stuff that went "bad. At GearLab, our roots are in rock climbing, as the website started as an offshoot of SuperTopo. Apr 4, 2025 · If you plan on trad climbing, cams are essential. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. May 9, 2024 · Based on our research and testing, we think the DMM Alloy Offsets is the best Climbing Nuts and Stoppers available in 2025. These critical systems serve as the foundation for climbers, allowing them to ascend, descend, and rest securely on the rock face. I have read some posts here regarding the expiration dates of climbing material, especially trad gear. There are special workflow considerations for placing glue ins. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. There are many different types of bolts out there and techniques to remove them often take specialized tools and techniques. Point Examples Now consider the following specific examples of pieces/anchor options: Apr 14, 2021 · So, looking at these estimates above, we are looking at $745 for a basic trad climbing rack with a set of nuts, a handful of the most used cams, a safe number of alpine draws and some equipment to build anchors and a nut tool. We even find it funny, sort of like a rite of passage, that classic "Oh I think you may need to put some more Would place and fall on those with confidence. Oct 31, 2024 · This review focuses on climbing nuts used for protecting traditional free climbing routes as well as for aid and big wall routes. ) less safe if the rock is (slightly Climbing gear is not made to last forever. Part 4—Learn to Climb Trad: Knots, Rappelling, and Logistics Knowing the right knot for the right situation makes for safe, efficient Apr 3, 2018 · To add 4 more points, find a good stance, clip into the anchor, and belay directly off your belay loop. Thats the great thing about nuts, they are easy to inspect, and easy to conceptually understand. Can anyone tell me how to safely build a trad anchor out of only passive pro? I am assuming that only placing the nuts downward would be awful during a hard catch. Aug 30, 2021 · Many climbing areas and climbing websites also have systems in place for reporting suspect bolts and hangers. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. Feb 25, 2015 · Due to their moving parts, cams fall into a classification of climbing gear known as “active protection,” as opposed to “passive protection,” which would be pro such as nuts, which contain no moving parts. Inspect your wires for kinks or abrasions and inspect the heads of your nuts for abrasions or cracks. Here are our in-depth reviews! Equip your climbing wall with reliable hardware from Walltopia! We offer T-nuts, bolts, anchors, and all the essentials for safe climbing experiences. But "relatively inexpensive" in climbing is still "pretty expensive. around/slightly above 0°C) would be to try aid climbing, but we're wondering if this is a safe idea. Hands down, the best place to send used climbing cams, nuts, and other gear for a re-sling, trigger wire repair, or tune-up is the original manufacturer. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I have about 60 nuts and hexes going up to Camalot #3, but no cams. Nov 18, 2016 · The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors fast. Feb 16, 2014 · There are many ways to mark your climbing gear. May 29, 2020 · New to trad climbing? Our Beginner's Guide to Trad Climbing breaks down everything you need to know to get started trad climbing today. Climbing nuts exert very little outwards force on the rock, unlike cams. These tiny pieces of passive protection revolutionized what is possible with traditionally placed gear when they were first released. My question is, as the title says: Is mobile protection (i. Most gear covers 8-12 kN or 1,798-2,698 lbs of force. Look for corroded spots. When placed correctly, cams and nuts (gear used for trad climbing) are safe to fall on. The term “rock climbing nuts” encompasses a variety of devices, each designed with precision to meet distinct needs in the dynamic world of climbing. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. Wallnuts are essential climbing gear designed for versatility and reliability, making them the foundation of any comprehensive climbing rack. You need the right nuts, chocks, and stoppers to keep yourself from harm. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than ALPIDEX Climbing Nuts Set 10 pcs ; Size 1 - 10 Essential for all trad climbers and alpinists who like clean climbing - chocks. Feb 25, 2024 · These unassuming devices serve as anchors, providing climbers with stability and security as they ascend challenging terrains. Aug 29, 2016 · I have read some posts here regarding the expiration dates of climbing material, especially trad gear. See every brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. There are many different types and sizes of nuts, and the best type for you will depend on the type of climbing you do and the size of the cracks you typically climb in. . nuts, cams, hexes etc. Ball nuts are a seldom used type of climbing gear which offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. Jun 21, 2024 · A rock climbing harness goes around your waist and thighs and allows you to attach to the rope for both safe climbing and rappelling and to belay your partner. Placing nuts are intuitive, they are inexpensive, and will last you a long time. Nov 19, 2025 · Complimenting your rack with the best climbing cams is just the first part of the journey. com Though it is ideal not to fall, the mantra may make you wonder how safe falling on gear actually is. Keep this in mind when climbing above thin protection, manky placements, or when the consequences of gear failure are dire. Most trad climbers carry a range of cams and nuts on every route to be able to fit the wide variety of crack sizes and shapes. Overall, Eldorado Canyon climbing is most known for multi-pitch routes, or routes that require you to climb multiple rope lengths. Feb 16, 2025 · Rock climbing is an exciting and rewarding outdoor activity that challenges both the body and mind. Cams, depends on how old the model is. It's a personal choice, but the non-colored ones aren't great. 3 and below for me. 9) New River Gorge, WV - Photo: Pat Goodman Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. They are cheap, light and durable. Most of the force is transferred in the direction it is being pulled (in most cases, down and slightly outwards from the rock). Related: Itching to get more adventurous in your climbing? Take the AIM Adventure U Intro to Trad online course and get ready to step up your trad game. With this set, Alpidex offers a classic 10 pcs chock set which covers a large size range. Sport climbing is the most popular form of outdoor roped climbing and is also practiced indoors in climbing gyms all over the world. Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. " That being said are the other parts still safe to use or is it worth taking to an REI or other to check out? Aug 8, 2022 · With no moving parts (hence, “passive protection”), nuts are inexpensive, lightweight, and sturdy. In this article, we will Compare different climbing nuts. Two - its slightly more difficult to ensure that a cam doesn't slightly alter its position after placement climbing above and past it. Aug 3, 2023 · Explore the inner workings of a ball nut and understand its role in climbing. Our Friends, including the climbing rock set, are built to make sure your climbing experience is safe and enjoyable. Nuts, Rocks and Wires are generic names for a type of leader place protection for rock climbing. Nuts are always worth buying second hand; people will be getting rid of the non color coded ones most likely. With a barrel longer than your standard T-nuts, the Industrial T-nut is designed for ¾” plywood or thicker. Shop now for fast shipping and easy returns! May 6, 2022 · Keep these things in mind when researching used climbing gear and also when assessing your own rack each season. Apr 3, 2025 · Buying used climbing gear? Here are the red flags to look for and tips for ensuring the gear you buy is safe. Understanding how rock climbing anchors work is crucial for any climber, as the integrity of an anchor system can be the difference between a safe climb These things replaced all cams around 0. Aug 1, 2024 · Rock climbing anchors are essential for ensuring safety and stability in both sport and traditional climbing. Nuts are usually sold in sets of around ten. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Jun 2, 2022 · Actual climbing. tools for the job: Hammer Hook tool for hooking and pulling the sleeve out, this can be fashioned from a “T” handled hex key. Climbing cams increase your safety, acting as anchor points in cracks and crevices where bolts are lacking. Friends and nuts (as all climbing equipment) have a lifespan of 10 years according to all It's obviously true that a piece of gear is only as good as the rock you place it in, but for those of us who have been climbing trad for decades, we know there is often a subtle difference between seemingly similar bits of kit. This guide will help you understand how passive protection works and what to look for in a good placement. These are the strongest and lowest maintenance bolts available to climbers, but special care must be taken to ensure proper placement and longevity. Our goal here is to help educate climbers about how to be good hardware stewards to the climbing areas we love. According to several mechanical engineers, climbing hardware (biners, cams, nuts) is almost always safe unless it displays obvious faults such as cracks, deep gouges, or doesn’t function smoothly. Here's what you need to know. Discover how a ball nut functions to provide secure placements and increase efficiency during rock climbing and mountaineering activities. A good nut placement gives me more confidence than a good cam placement. These are the best climbing nut tools for every different need from best all around to lightweight, from budget options to most durable. Oct 7, 2024 · Deciding when to retire gear is tough. We tested all of the products in our review in a variety of rock types in places like Squamish, Eldorado Canyon, Yosemite Valley, the North Cascades, Smith Rocks, Red Rock, Joshua Tree, Zion, and more. These pieces are relatively inexpensive because they feature no moving parts. Brad Ausfresser I use nail polish—blue and green are my colors. These will give you a good range of sizes. Honestly, I appreciate the history of passive protection, and would like to stay passive. Here is a sample of the video and Here is a link to buy it Crack Climbing Wild country produced a well made video series that goes into a some of the techniques for the different sized cracks out there: Finger Cracks Hand Cracks Fist Cracks Offwidth Making quality rock climbing gear since 1983Jessa Goebel and Matt Wilder taking in the view from Two Bag Face (5. Placed plenty that are super solid. This Apr 14, 2025 · Hey fellow climbers! Today, I wanted to chat about a topic that’s near and dear to my heart (and my climbing gear): nuts! No, not the kind you find at a grocery store—the important ones that keep us safe on those exhilarating ascents. Oct 25, 2022 · Sport Climbing Protection In rock climbing terms, a sport climbing route refers to a route that’s protected by bolts that are permanently sunk into the rock. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. Two reason. Friends and nuts (as all climbing equipment) hav A beginners guide to the placement of Nuts, Rocks and Wires for protecting trad rock climbing. The name comes from the their development. Our team of climbing experts leverages more than 40 years of combined climbing experience, styling alpine ascents and performing rescues with the Yosemite Search and Rescue. On the other hand, people sell used climbing gear almost anywhere and you can find better deals buying second-hand. Definition and Origins of Climbing Bolts In the sport of rock climbing, a bolt is an anchor point permanently fixed into the rock. Needle nose pliers A magnet of some kind that will fit into the bolt hole Adjustable wrench, 1/2” wrench, 9/16” wrench, and 3/4” wrench (if using Hurley jr tool) Tap tool of the corresponding size to sleeve being pulled (3/8”-16 for 3/8” 5pc bolt Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. The truth is that whatever works for you is a good way. The best carabiner for most people is CAMP Photon Wire. Our recommended method is to drill Shop for Nuts at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. So which of the current crop of nuts / wires / stoppers did we prefer? Great prices on world-class polyurethane rock climbing holds, T-nuts, hardware, and accessories. They are made of a flexible wire which is threaded through a hard 'nut' of metal. Cams can be sketchy in horizontals too. Apr 16, 2023 · When it comes to rock climbing, one of the most important pieces of gear are the nuts. Climbing Nuts 101 will help you make that decision when you're getting your first gear for trad climbing. Oct 1, 2011 · I slightly prefer a nut in a good placement to a cam in a good placement. In this guide, we’ll cover essential rock climbing safety Sep 8, 2022 · Knowing how to place climbing nuts for the best protection allows you to save your pricey cams for when you really need them, getting more mileage out of your climbing gear. If I’m taking one set of wires I rack 1-6 on one crab and 7-10 on Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Having said that, here’s my racking system to give you one idea. These Nov 8, 2024 · Protection placement is critical to safe trad climbing. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Nov 19, 2025 · Climbing nuts are one of the first pieces of trad protection climbers will purchase. A good placement is a good placement - nothing wrong with placing a nut in a horizontal. Ball Nuts? For those that have heard of them but have never tried them, they are thought of as a piece of aid climbing pro or a relic from a bygone climbing era. See full list on rei. As a climber ascends they place pieces of gear – like cams or nuts – into faults in the rock, then clip their rope into carabiners that are also clipped to the gear. The brass ball doesn't make them more of a marginal piece, however it does makes them very prone to get stuck after a big whipper, which is the only downside I see to them. Losing half your rack to an unplanned escape is one thing, but decommissioning gear is quite another. Explore a wide range of our Climbing Nut selection. When you need it though, you’ll be thankful you brought it. Oct 31, 2023 · Get rock climbing gear recommendations from NOLS instructors! Learn what gear we use and our tips for caring for our equipment. Generally, active pro is larger, heavier, and more expensive, but it also fits into more places than passive pro. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Shop for climbing nuts at Rock+Run for all your climbing equipment needs. Train grip strength, challenge your friends, and keep the climbing spirit alive - anywhere, anytime Apr 5, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Don't go ancient, make sure they spring back / cam properly. Don’t buy cheap nail polish, or it’ll wear quickly! Cristiano Vieira I use thin blue electrical tape on my biners—I put it there while I’m sitting around, waiting Mar 8, 2017 · Passive protection devices—nuts / stoppers, hexes, and tricams— form the basis of any trad climber's gear rack. May 1, 2018 · The humble nut tool: the tool that no one really wants to have to use. It’s very common when you first start climbing to have your nuts tinkle out below you as you move up. Racking nuts Every climber has their own nut racking techniques and reasons why it should be done in such and such a way. Jan 6, 2020 · The Alloy Offset from DMM is our review team's favorite overall nut for all-around trad climbing because of their versatility and how perfect they are where most other pieces of passive protection or cams are adequate at best. You’ll want to supplement it with a set of the best climbing nuts so you can protect any climbing you might encounter. Crafted with precision, these climbing nuts feature unique alloy compositions tailored to each size—harder alloys for smaller nuts to prevent shearing, and softer alloys for larger sizes to ensure Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. Nut key if you can get one is always a safe purchase. Rock climbing can be a lot of fun, but it can also be quite dangerous if you aren’t prepared. com —it is a critical community service. Jun 11, 2019 · Photo Gallery: 8 Gear Marking Methods, Submitted by Our Readers Anthony Johnson Kristina and I broke out the Dremel tool and engraved our rack a few years ago. A backup plan for somewhat cold weather (i. Learn to place trad nuts like a pro with this AMGA-based guide. For a more in-depth discussion of what makes a good passive placement, we recommend John Long's book Climbing Anchors. Jul 24, 2025 · They're an essential part of any climber's trad rack, but what makes the best climbing nuts? There's many different styles and brands to choose from when deciding on which ones you're going to buy. " What Climbing Nuts Should You Buy? Consensus favorites: Black Diamond Stoppers and DMM Wallnuts Black Diamond Stoppers 4-13 Pretty… Jun 11, 2019 · Photo Gallery: 8 Gear Marking Methods, Submitted by Our Readers Anthony Johnson Kristina and I broke out the Dremel tool and engraved our rack a few years ago. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, safety should always be your top priority. But if you’re new to trad climbing, how do you make sure that you’re getting the best climbing nuts? With climbing experience, you build your own personal preference. Read on to get information on how to choose nuts, chocks, and stoppers. So they enable a placing even in tapered or small cracks as well Jun 28, 2023 · Keep reading to learn about some commonly used bolts and how to tell if they are safe to use or not. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Dec 25, 2016 · Hey guys, I am a fledging trad climber. (You don't have to tell me how Cypher produces high quality rock climbing shoes, harnesses, gear, and hardware. May 6, 2022 · Deep Dive into Used Climbing Cams and Nuts Brand new climbing gear can be very expensive and even hard to find depending on where in the country you live and climb. The trickiest—and most important—parts of multi-pitch trad climbing are placing solid gear and building safe anchors quickly. Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. It hits the key marks most climbers seek Oct 18, 2021 · What Is Trad Climbing? Trad Climbing is the more traditional form of rock climbing where the protection from falling is placed into the wall by the climber. HMS as many as you can get. I climb with a lot of novice climbers and teach a lot of climbers how to lead and one of the most important skills in staying safe at the sharp end is getting your nuts to stay put. It's for this reason that they Friends climbing gear has a wealth of climbing equipment available to use when you're climbing through trickier spots and need that extra power and safety. In this article, we discuss when to use a climbing nut versus a cam, plus how to place climbing nuts for your safety and confidence on the crag. Effectively a metal wedge on a wire sling, these pieces of protection are the bread and butter of keeping climbers safe when they are trad climbing. Find the best climbing nuts from Black Diamond, CAMP, DMM, Metolius, Omega Pacific, Wild Country. May 24, 2019 · Nuts, pieces of metal wedged into cracks, are used to protect you while climbing a route or creating belay anchors. nptd stikj awcrdo xkn fumj mlwq olhy wtorvp ddknoc ebpcjbz tie xagpb xdmoz tamynxix hlsqe